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Author: Dave

Mpeikon

μπείκον / BAY-kin / bacon

Yes, the Greek word for bacon is bacon. But I thought the how of it was interesting, and it was one of the first words I learned in Greek, so it has a special place in my heart.

(In Lefkada, in the first week or so, we were trying to find some restaurant that was one, open in the winter and two, served something that was easy enough for non-speakers to obtain. We were driving around the downtown area — think, like, a third the size of downtown COS — and it felt like the low-hanging fruit places were all closed — pizza, bakeries, whatever. We finally came around a corner and thought about giving up and going to the grocery store when we found a little pizza-slash-bakery that sold peinirli which will get its own entry some day, but for the moment, all you need to know is that they had flavors, and as I started trying to parse out the words in the menu, I sounded out μπείον and then sheepishly realized it was the English word bacon.)

(Bacon peinirli are pretty good btw.)

What’s silly about it is that Greek has no ‘B’ sound. Sure, they have a Β/β, but it sounds like a ‘V.’ Yes, beta is really veta. So when they started adding words from other languages, they made a digraph of letters they already had that I GUESS sounds closest to a ‘B’ sound, and thus bacon became mpacon.

There are a couple of others. The one I know second best after MP=B is NT=D — Greek delta Δ/δ is a hard TH like … well, like the Nordic Ð more than anything. So when they imported words with an English D, they represent it with NT (ντ). That makes for some funny translation stuff — there was a place on Lefkada called “Valedine’s” because someone had changed the “NT” to a “D.”

Potatasuppe

ποτατασoúπε / poe-tah-tah-soop / potato soup

I know this isn’t the kind of content that will tempt you to visit Greece, but I was watching Youtube videos yesterday and one of the local Greek ads was for a video (?) of a TV chef cooking potato soup with bacon and I realized that I’m starting to more quickly parse the letters, and so when this guy is cooking ποτατασoúπη βελουτέ (velouté!) μετ μπεικον (with bacon!) not only am I amazed that I can read what the video is going to cook but I can quickly confirm that I am right by looking at the thumbnail and seeing the tasty-looking potato soup with bacon!

(We gonna talk about that μπ part of the bacon later.)

Parakalo

ΠΑΡΑΚΑΛΌ παρακαλό / pah-rah-kah-LOW / please and also you’re welcome

I got to use this one today! Sure I was ordering gyros in English and just put that at the end of the sentence but I think they appreciated it. I like that they “double-duty” it by making it also work as “you’re welcome.” It’s also used as a way to answer the phone, although I still prefer “go for Dave.”

Efcharisto

ΕΥΧΑΡΙΣΤΌ ευχαριστό  /  eff-(ch)ar-eess-TOE  /  thank you

OK back to the Greek lessons. I retained basically none of the Greek words I learned besides this and kalimera/kalispera so we starting fresh!

Oh and portokalo.

Oh and maybe kotopoulo.

Hello, please, and thank you are the base phrases I feel like you should learn for any new destination. Even if you then are going to try and rely on others to speak English to get bare essentials, at least meet them at the front door of their own language. So I’ll start with those since they aren’t quiet as commonplace (in my mind) as the Spanish or French words for those things.

Evidently the stress on the last syllable is important — if you stress the second (eff-CHAR-eestoe) or the third (effchar-EESS-toe) are the adjective (thankful) and adverb (thankfully) forms. Language is neet.

Oh and pentakosio. If I need five hundred chickens or oranges I’m set.

Merveilleux

mer-vay-YUH  /  french confection

There’s not a lot new in French pastries, which is OK — when you’re in Paris, you want to eat croissants and pains aux chocolate and tartes aux pommes and all the other buttery stuff that comes out of a patisserie. But I do think these are pretty contemporary, an invention of one little shop that specializes in them — Aux Merveilleux de Fred. Basically they’re layer cakes where the layers are made up of meringues and flavored whipped cream, with some more crumbled meringue around the outside. You can get big ones, but we opted for a sampler pack of minis so we could try all the flavors.

Île Saint-Louis

eel sai(n) loo-EE  /  an island in the seine river

The Seine river divides the city of Paris, and I think most people know that there’s at least one island in the middle of it — Île de la Cité, the biggest of the three and the one that Notre Dame is built on. The island also is the home of the Saint Chapelle with its huge stained glass interior, as well as the Palais de Justice. It also has a bunch of touristy cafés and souvenir shops.

Directly behind Notre Dame and to the east is Île Saint-Louis, a more residential island with a single market street down the center. it’s a favorite destination for us because of two things: one, the Saint Regis, a cocktail bar and cafe that overlooks the bridge between the two islands and the back of Notre Dame, that is a great place to sit and have a drink; and second, Aux Anysetiers du Roy, a tiny bistro where I was scolded by the grand-mere who owns the restaurant to clean my plate, and we always return to check in on her. (The right play here is always to order something French countryside; the steaks are fine but the cassoulet and the boeuf bourguignon are very very good.)

Marmotte

marr-MOHT  /  marmot

Attempted to get lunch at a Chinese noodle place around Les Halles this afternoon, but they were closed between lunch and dinner, so we instead went to a raclette / fondue place called Les Marmottes. You wouldn’t think the French would go all in on theming around a big rodent, but this place was definitely going the distance, with encyclopedia-worthy photos around the walls and a man-sized stuffed marmot in a ski lift up above the back dining room.

Never mind that, the fondue was tremendous. I got a little jealous of the giant table next to us that had two giant things of fondue in the middle of the table and a raclette at either end, each holding a giant wheel of cheese. H and I couldn’t do that alone probably. We barely took down a single fondue.

But if there’s ever a full-on trip to Paris, I’m booking one of those big tables.

Galette

gah-let / savory crepe from Brittany

Checked out of the hotel room and there’s nothing to do until our flight at (checks) jeez TEN PM so we’re just hanging out around the hotel. I imagine we could go into the airport at any time? But we won’t be able to check our bags until this evening, and we can at least stash our suitcases here at the front desk until it’s time to go, so we’re just enjoying the richly-appointed hotel lounge. Probably will end up drinking $22 amaretto sours at some point. If nothing else, it’ll make sleeping on the flight pretty easy.

One of the options in the hotel food court is a crêpe place, and since I don’t ever want to see a hotel hot dog again after last night, we opted to get lunch there. And this publication doesn’t need to only focus on one spot! It’s called THE WORLD after all, and maybe Brad wants to go to Paris? I bet French girls would love to be asked …

Avez-vous rencontré Brad?

We got savory crêpes which are called galettes in actual France. They’re made with a different batter, more hearty and less thin-pancake-y than the ones that come with bananas and Nutella. The de facto place to get a galette is Café Breizh in Le Marais (although there are a few around Paris – including one on Rue Montorgueil, right by our apartment this trip), which makes traditional jambon cru but also has stuff Russ might like like artichoke and wakame seaweed.

Anafiotika

ΑΝΑΦΙΟΤΙΚΑ / anna-fee-OH-ti-kah

I’ll eventually do an entry for all the neighborhoods that I think I’d go to, but Anafiotika was one we ended up in last year that I thought was pretty cool. It’s in between Plaka, the “historic” district on the eastern side of the Acropolis, and the Acropolis itself, and while it’s full of gorgeous white-clay buildings reminiscent of the islands, it’s definitively NOT touristic, and the residents do their level best to remind people that it’s primarily a residential neighborhood.

There aren’t really any restaurants or shops — just little cube-y houses that were built by imported workers some time in the early 1800s. Lots of steep stairs, lots of meandering skinny corridors. It’s fairly tiny too — and there are some spectacular views back over the city from a little park at the top.

Apokries

ΑΠΟΚΡΙΕΣ  /  ah PO kree ahss  /  Orthodox carnival

Just realized that we’re going to be here for the entirety of Greek carnival season. We skirted it last year — Orthodox Easter was really late — so Tsiknopempti happened right at the very end of our time in Lefkada. This year we’re going to be in Athens for the whole thing;

Tsiknopempti (Smoke Thursday) : Feb 20
Tyrini (Cheese Week) : starts Feb 24
Kethari Deftara (Clean Monday) : Mar 3

To explain a little more though — the Orthodox Christian calendar is different than the Roman Christian calendar, so the exact dates might not match up, but apokries is the Orthodox season right before Lent, where people get all their crazy celebrating out of the way before the fasting period that starts. Mardi Gras, Carneval, Apokries — same thing. Apokries is a gradual progression towards the fasting of Lent, probably set up to let families clean out their fridges. Eat all the meat the first week, then eat all the cheese and eggs the next week. 

Evidently it gets crazy in Plaka and Psyrri. One of the articles I read said it’s common for revelers to throw confetti and bonk each other on the heads with plastic squeaky clubs. I can’t decide if that would really annoy Russ, or that Russ would really love having a plastic squeaky club.

(I am looking forward to the ankle-deep confetti.)

Clean Monday is the start of Lent — the Ash Wednesday of Orthodoxy. Reveling is over. Take a quiet day for introspection and, for some reason, fly a kite.